Custom Garage Sheds Built for the Pacific Northwest

Roll-up doors are designed for frequent equipment access. They go straight up, out of the way, and give you the full width of the opening to work with.

We use a hair seal system along the tracks to minimize gaps, but there will always be a small space between the door and the frame — it's the nature of the door. That means some dust, bugs, and air exchange. If your only goal is sealed storage, a standard shed door or a residential-style man door with a deadbolt is the better call.

We also offer an insulated door option — stiffer panels, quieter operation, and a more residential look. Worth considering if you're in a neighborhood or close to neighbors.

Not sure you need a roll-up? A storage shed with a standard out-swing door might be all you need.

Don't guess on door width. Measure the widest thing you'll ever roll through that opening and give yourself room on both sides.

• 6ft door — handles most standard equipment. Riding mowers, motorcycles, bikes, workbenches on wheels.
• 8ft to 9ft door — more breathing room for larger mowers, multiple bikes side by side, or bulky items.
• 10ft+ door — side-by-sides, small boats on trailers, ATVs with accessories. At this width you need real header engineering.

Doors over 9 feet wide are a custom build — we don't have them in the configurator yet. But you can design your shed in the 3D builder to get a general idea of size and pricing, then reach out and we'll update the quote with a custom door spec.

We build garage sheds from the smallest size that fits your needs all the way up to 20x20 in some areas — depending on your lot, local setback requirements, and zoning. We don't pull permits or stamp drawings, but we can build to your specs if you handle the permitting side.

We strongly recommend concrete for garage sheds. The roll-up door setback exposes the floor to exterior weather — rain, dirt, runoff. Concrete handles that. Wood not so much.

Here's what a proper garage shed slab looks like in the PNW:

• Slight grade toward the door — so water drains out, not in.
• Gravel base and vapor barrier underneath — especially important in Western Washington where moisture wicks up through the ground.
• 4 inches thick for lawn equipment and light use. 6 inches if you're driving anything heavy on it regularly.

We'd rather talk you out of a garage shed than build one on the wrong foundation. Wood floors on garage sheds are harder to grade for drainage, take more abuse from heavy equipment, and the door setback area is constantly exposed to weather. We can use flashing and pressure-treated plywood to protect a wood floor, but it's a compromise — not a solution.

If your site can't support a slab due to slope, access, or soil conditions — that's a conversation, not a checkbox. Reach out and we'll walk through options specific to your lot.

A 10-foot roll-up door opening is a 10-foot hole in your wall. The framing above it has to carry the roof load across that entire span and transfer it down to the jack studs on each side. That takes a properly sized header — not just whatever lumber was lying around.

We size headers based on IBC guidelines regardless of whether your county requires a permit. Just because you can build without one doesn't mean the physics don't apply.

This is another reason concrete floors are ideal for garage sheds. Our wood floors are solid, but they're designed to handle evenly distributed loads — not the concentrated point loads you get at the base of a large door opening. Concrete gives you a uniform foundation that handles load transfer from the header down through the jack studs without compromise.

Need the height for taller equipment? A barn shed with a roll-up door gives you gambrel headroom with drive-in access — full loft above and clearance below.

When the door is up, you've got airflow. When it's closed on a PNW winter day, you've got a sealed box with wet equipment inside.

This matters more in garage sheds than standard storage sheds because you're bringing the outside in every time you roll something through that door. A mower covered in wet grass. An ATV dripping mud. Bikes soaked from a ride.

Gable vents or ridge venting keeps moisture from sitting on your equipment and condensing on the ceiling. Without it, you're creating the exact conditions that grow mold and rust out your gear.

We cover ventilation options and moisture management in detail on our how we build page.

If you're storing expensive equipment — ATVs, motorcycles, power tools — security is worth a conversation.

• Roll-up door with a keyed lock cylinder — adds a layer of protection compared to a double shed door with exterior hinges and a simple keyed handle.
• Man door with a deadbolt on the side wall — gives you walk-in access without opening the main door every time, and adds a second secure entry point.

Both are options in the configurator. It comes down to what you're storing and how much peace of mind matters to you.

This depends on what you're rolling in and out, but here's a rough guide from what we've seen:

• 10x12 — riding mower, a few bikes, some gear along the walls. Entry-level garage shed.
• 12x16 to 14x20 — ATV or side-by-side plus storage and room to work around it.
• 16x20 to 20x20 — small boat, multiple vehicles, full workshop potential. At this size you're likely in permit territory in most jurisdictions.

Don't forget ceiling height — if you're parking a boat on a trailer or anything with vertical clearance needs, standard 8-foot walls might not cut it. We can adjust wall height in the configurator.

Tight on lot space but don't need drive-in access? A lean-to shed makes the most of narrow footprints.

Not sure what size works? Try it in the 3D builder — you can resize in seconds and the pricing updates live.

Building a garage shed in the PNW has a few extra considerations over a standard storage shed:

• Wind load on the roll-up door — that's a big opening with no structural support when the door is up. The header and wall framing have to account for lateral wind loads, not just vertical roof load.
• Rain blowing in when the door is open — consider an overhang or awning above the door. Even a 12-inch extension keeps a lot of water off your equipment and out of the shed.
• Concrete slab moisture management — gravel base, vapor barrier, and proper grading are non-negotiable in a climate with 40+ inches of rain a year.

We build every garage shed to handle PNW conditions — not dry-climate assumptions. See the full breakdown on our how we build page.

Pro tip: We can run conduit through the concrete slab during the pour for future electrical — mention it when you reach out.