Custom Garden Sheds Built for the Pacific Northwest

This is the biggest difference between a garden shed and a standard storage shed. The floor is going to see water, dirt, and moisture on a regular basis. Not from leaks — from use. You're dragging in muddy boots, hosing off pots, spilling water when you fill the watering can, and stacking bags of soil that sweat moisture through the plastic. A standard plywood subfloor in those conditions is going to swell, warp, and rot. That's why garden sheds need a floor that can handle moisture — either a pressure-treated plywood subfloor or a concrete slab. Pressure-treated plywood on a properly elevated frame handles seasonal moisture at a lower cost. A concrete slab is the better choice if you're planning to hose the floor down regularly or doing serious potting work. Either way, standard plywood isn't the move.

This is where a garden shed is the opposite of a storage shed. In a storage shed, every window is wall space you can't shelve. In a garden shed, natural light is the whole point.

You're working in here — potting, sorting, inspecting plants, reading seed packets. Good natural light makes that work easier and makes the space feel like somewhere you actually want to spend time, not just a dark box you duck into.

• Windows on multiple walls give you cross-light and reduce shadows on your work surface.
• Operable windows that open give you ventilation and airflow — critical in the PNW where a closed-up shed turns into a humidity box.
• Placement matters — put windows where they light your workbench, not where they're blocked by shelving. Think about where you'll actually be standing.

We can do a sun study on your lot to figure out optimal window placement based on the direction your shed will face and when you'll be using it most.

Most people buy a standalone potting bench, shove it in a shed, and it takes up half the floor space while wobbling every time they press down on it.

A built-in workbench along one wall is sturdier, uses space more efficiently, and can be designed around how you actually work. Deeper section for potting, narrower section for tools, a lip to keep soil from rolling off the back, hooks underneath for hand tools.

Because we frame with 16-inch on-center studs, you can mount a workbench to the wall studs directly — solid backing anywhere you want it. No guessing where the studs are, no hollow spots, no toggle bolts into drywall.

Shelving above the bench for pots, seeds, and supplies keeps everything at arm's reach without eating floor space. Think vertical — the wall above your bench is prime real estate.

A garden shed in Western Washington without proper ventilation is a mold factory. Between the moisture you bring in from gardening and the 40+ inches of annual rain outside, humidity has nowhere to go unless you give it a path.

• Operable windows are the first line of defense. Open them when you're working, crack them on mild days to keep air moving.
• Gable vents or ridge venting let hot, moist air escape from the peak where it collects.
• Soffit vents pull in cooler air from below, creating passive airflow even when the shed is closed.

This isn't just about comfort — it's about protecting your tools, your seeds, your soil, and the shed itself. Condensation on the ceiling dripping onto bags of seed is how you lose a season's worth of supplies.

We cover ventilation options in detail on our how we build page.

A garden shed sits in the middle of the thing you care most about — your landscape. It can't be an eyesore.

This is the one shed where curb appeal matters as much as function. Color-matched siding, window boxes, trim details, a roof line that complements your house — all of it matters because this shed is visible from everywhere in your yard.

We build garden sheds in any roof style:

• Gable — classic, symmetrical, works with almost any home style.
• Lean-to — modern and clean, great for contemporary properties. More on that on our lean-to sheds page.
• Gambrel — if you want the barn look with extra loft storage for pots and seasonal gear. See our barn sheds page.

The roof style is your call. We'll make sure it looks right on your property.

A garden shed in the PNW gets hit from both sides — rain on the outside and moisture from use on the inside. Here's how we handle it:

• Pressure-treated contact points and elevated floor — the shed never sits directly on soil. Moisture wicks up and rots everything it touches.
• Housewrap behind the siding — wind-driven rain in Western Washington gets behind siding. Without housewrap, that moisture sits on your framing and you've got a problem you can't see until the damage is done.
• Proper roofing — underlayment, starter strips, and shingle layout designed for wind and rain. Not just day-one appearance.
• Ventilation built in — not added as an afterthought. A garden shed without airflow in this climate is fighting a losing battle.

We build for the weather you actually have, not the weather you wish you had. Full breakdown on our how we build page.

Garden sheds don't need to be big — they need to be well laid out. A small shed with a smart plan beats a big one with no plan every time.

• 6x8 to 8x10 — potting bench, basic tool storage, a few shelves. Enough for a casual gardener who needs a dedicated space.
• 10x12 to 12x14 — full potting station, room for a mower, seasonal supply storage, and space to move. This is the sweet spot for most serious gardeners.
• 14x16 and up — greenhouse vibes. Enough room for seed starting, multiple work surfaces, and bulk soil storage. At this point you're living in here.

Not sure what fits? The 3D configurator lets you try different sizes and layouts. Add windows, move the door, test a workbench wall — see it all in real time before we build.